Sunday, February 27, 2011

Fish Soup with Curry Leaves and Coconut Milk

I want to remember the fish soup I made tonight, I saw a TV program where Jamie Oliver made a soup like this... I do not remember the details of what he put in it. I saw it once and didn't write anything... I am just very clear that he did not use spinach.

oil
mustard seeds (I am telling you let them pop!!!! ...and for those you do not know: put a lid on the pot)
coriander seeds
curry leaves
        Temper together

turmeric (for colour)
basmati rice
         Temper some more it can't hurt

water
fish
       Cook

spinach
    Cook some more

coconut milk
       Simmer

Lime juice
        Simmer

I recommend adding a insane amount of freshly ground black pepper to it, just individually in your own plate.
Also if it is not an evening dish and you eat it where there is a lot of light (we ate at candle light) I would add cubes of red peppers just to have some specks of red in the plate.

South African beaded wire artists

I love the animals made of beaded wires you can get in South Africa. If I didn't stop myself I would buy zillions of them. You can get them at stores, at markets or at traffic lights (called "robots" in South Africa).

There is a all variety. You can find all the African animals, plus dragons, dinosaurs, plants etc.

And they come in all kind of sizes from key chains to fairly big.
This guy always has amazing stuff, and they make them here and there on the sidewalk!!

All those guys are so gifted. They have an incredible sense of three-dimensional representation. Their work is amazing.

Both photos were taken from inside the car while I was waiting at the traffic light hence the weird washed out light.

From Sprinbok to Port Nolloth

I am cleaning my photos and I thought that I should show you more pictures from my December  trip to the west coast.
When you reach the last part of the road to get to the west coast of South Africa  and you have passed Springbok you are out of the Kalahari but it does not mean you are out of the desert.

Map modified from Google Maps. In the ellipse is the road along which the following photos were taken
 After Springbok and getting to the west coast you are in Namaqualand. Beautiful place mostly known for its daisies ...yes I did say "desert" and now I am saying "daisies"...which only bloom during the spring during the rainy (or at least rain-ier) season. I have never seen it during the daisy season. But here is what it looks like during the rest of the year.





And then you get near the coast and the cool water of  the Atlantic often results in a solid band of fog and this is what it can look like.

It can be a line of somewhat fluffy  clouds over the ocean.

But mostly it shows up as a very straight line and everything is hot and dry inland while everything in the fog is cold and damp. The boundary between clear sky and fog sometimes stays over the water (presumably when the breeze comes from the land) and then it is a beautiful beach day. 

But mostly it comes over the land (presumably when the breeze comes from the sea) and then you can forget about going to the beach. Especially because this fog is quite cold but you need to either cover up or put serious sun screen on. You can burn through it in the worse possible way because you cannot feel the heat of the sun. I saw somebody who had spent the day well covered because of the cold but walking bear feet on beach who was in a wheelchair because each one of their feet was a solid blister which had to be pump empty (with a syringe) by a doctor.

Still it is a nice effect to see.

Five birds of South Africa

I am not particularly a birder but I do enjoy watching birds. They are the last creatures able to live free around us without necessarily needing us to eat. Unlike rats, for example, who live free but live on our garbage.

Here are five totally different and random birds from South Africa, just because I happen to have their pictures.

First, a parrot from the garden. Lovely creature!

Then sociable weaver birds. The masses on top of the electric poles are the nests. Some of the nests get even bigger than this.

The nest is accessed from the under side. Socialble weaver birds are amazingly plain looking. In fact if they were away from their nest they would be hard to tel apart from common sparrows.





Just for comparaison here is a photo I have shown before of a "normal" weaver bird making his own nest all on its own. In fact in this case you have one bird (the male) and two nests as opposed to one nests and many birds

The next bird is the Mystery Bird. I have no idea what it is but I spent some time watching it. I was in Augrabies Falls National Park. A small stream was running across the road (in a reverse bridge pattern where the stream is made to cross over a cement section of road and you have to drive through the water to get cross). He was on the up stream side of the cement road and when a small fish came over the cement he would grab them and eat them.

And this one is a tiny little bird called Malachite King Fisher. The photo is not great but it is a neat little bird.

Thursday, February 24, 2011

One Hundred Trillion Dollars

While in Gaborone a young Zimbabwean approached me trying to raise money "to pay his tuition so he could take his exam" ... or just trying to make some money, who knows?

Anyway I bought a one hundred trillion dollar bill from him.
See after all you know some very rich people!! (Sarcasm)


I never give money because I believe or do not believe a story. I just give money if I feel like it. In fact I prefer to give for no reason at all.

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

My little bit of No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency

"No.1 Ladies Detective Agency" is the first book of a series by Alexander McCall Smith. They are very popular. I think it is the first book of the series which was made into a movie. I have to admit that I tried to read the first one but could never get into it and never tried again, though I really like other books by McCall Smith.
Anyway, the main character of the No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency is Precious Ramotswe (aslo known as Mma Ramotswe). She lives in Mochudi in Botswana but apparently some of McCall Smith's settings are inspired from Gaborone and apparently one of the place where she goes for tea is inspired from the tea room at the hotel where I was staying.

This is the balcony from which I took the market photos, so you can see why it would be a good spot for a lady detective to observe what is going on.

Just outside Gaborone you can go and visit the film set, and you have the Number 1 Ladies' Detective opera house. You can also take The Number 1 Ladies Detective Agency Tour!

As an aside, hotels in Gaborone are outrageously expensive. This hotel which was a three stars was clean but was ultimately very plain. The space between wall tiles in the bathroom had gaping holes which I wouldn't care about if it wasn't  for the fact that this was the most expensive hotels I have ever paid for (I can't stay "stayed at" because through my job I have stayed at some pretty fancy hotels). 
Due to some mistake of the travel agent I stayed for two nights for the price of one night (the hotel did not have to take the loss), so it was supposed to be a really good deal, but even at half price it was grossly overpriced.

Botswana tourist industry is known for being very expensive.

Gaborone - the market on Main Mall

From the little bit I saw of Botswana you could really tell that it is a country which is doing very well (In fact Botswana is the most stable country in Africa). Even flying over Gaborone before landing you could see a huge difference with the other countries in southern Africa. There was no slums, no garbage. It looks clean and organized. And my couple of days in town confirmed this original "fly by" impression.

As an example here are some shots of the market at Main Mall (basically the downtown of Gaborone) I had never seen such a spacious, open, clean market...not anywhere, never mind Africa.

 In this shot you can see the sign for the Spar grocery store who was selling the mopane worms in tomato sauce... In case you get there and you want to try some. Thought I would be willing to bet that if they had it most grocery store with deli section has them.

 Downtown Gaborone is very modern and you can see the building. You can also see a very African thing: the huge line up to the ATM machine.

 See how clean and spacious it is!?!

In the background you can see the line up to the other ATM at the same market.

I have to say that from what I saw Botswana is to Africa what Switzerland is to Europe. Here is my idea of what a market in Africa should look like.:
One example from Ethiopia

and one example from Mozambique

Botswana currency and languages

Here is something which I think is very neat: the Bastwana currency (Batswana is the adjective for somebody or something from Botswana) is the Pula which means "rain" in Setswana. It is devided into 100 Thebes, which means "shield" in Setswana.

Since The Kalahari Desert covers 84% of Botswana I guess it is not surprising that rain should be considered so valuable.


Here is another interesting thing: the national language of Botswana is Setswana but the official language is English. I have to admit it never even occurred to me before that there was a difference between "National" and "Official" languages. And there are no clicks in Setswana. Now that seems very weird to me!!! All other southern African languages I have heard have clicks.

Mopane Worms

You may (or may not) remember me posting something about mopane trees on the old blog.
They have a particular leaf and fruit shape which makes them very easily recognizable.




This time in Gaborone (Botswana) I saw mopane worms, which only eat mopane leaves as the name would suggest, offered at the deli section  of the Spar store (Spar is a very common mid-range grocery store chain). They were cooked in tomato sauce. I didn't buy any the first time I saw them. Then I thought that I should try them and take some pictures to show you guys but when I went back they were sold out. However at the market a woman was selling them by the cup for about a dollar a cup) roasted and dry.


I bought a cup (she threw in a few extra to show that she was a fair stand keeper) but honestly only tried half of one.




I tried the back half because some have barbs on the front half.

I thought they were very dry, not very tasty (basically a little salty) but very gritty. They are worse than pop corn and bits and pieces stay in your teeth. Maybe the soft ones in tomato sauce would be better.

They are very popular and they even appear on the 5 pula coin of Boswana.

Monday, February 21, 2011

Going to Gaborone

I am flying to Gaborone (Capital city of Botswana) this afternoon. I am just going for two nights, then I'll be back to Jo'burg.
Weirdly enough I have never been to Botswana before. Probably because the currency in Botswana (called Pulas) is pretty much always just a little stronger than the South African Rand and Botswana is a bit expensive a place for me.

I'll try to take some photos.

Thursday, February 17, 2011

New Travel Plans

You know how those change so quickly but right now if I can sort out all the paperwork for visa, plane tickets etc, on time the plan is to go to China in early April for about a month and a half, then go to Canada and do another very long road trip...... and then no plan.
But I should imagine that once the cold arrives in Canada I will want to hop to the other side of the equator to catch summer again.

The other day I bought myself a cheap T-shirt saying "Dream, Love, Forever Summer"... I bought it obviously because of the "Forever Summer". I love the idea of it.

My Friend's house in Johannesburg

When I am in Johannesburg these days this is where I stay. I have some very generous friends who let me stay at their house.


This is the view from my front door which is also my "office", where I normally can get an internet connection good enough to Skype for a bit. You can see the two dogs. I take them for a walk just about every day but I have to take them one at a time because the one you see in this picture fully lying on her side is not very disciplined and pulls a lot on her leash.

Below is the photo of the actual room where I stay on top of the garage. It is wonderful. I have quite a bit of autonomy and I can come in and out of my room without disturbing people in the house. My "office" is at the top of the stair you see on the side of the building. And the tiny white car is the car I use.

They have a beautiful garden and right now it is summer in South Africa so things are doing well, though honestly you can grow just about anything in this climate.
Look at the size of those "trumpets" and the tree that bears them bloom several time a year. I don't think I have ever seen this tree without "trumpets".


So many beautiful flowers.
It is a beautiful garden with nice spots to sit and read.


Saturday, February 12, 2011

Reading: The Earthsea Quartet

These days I do not have much time to read. It seems that all my time goes to Mandarin, sorting out books at the charity store, shopping for food and cooking. But when I have time to read I am reading the Earthsea Quartet (A Wizard of Earthsea; The Tombs of Atuan; The farthest Shore and Tehanu) by Ursula Le Guin. The edition I bought (secondhand obviously) is published by Puffin which made me think that it was one of her children's book but here is a small extract from The Farthest Shore :
- " You fear them because you fear death, and rightly : for death is terrible, and must be feared," the mage said. He laid new wood on the fire, and blew on the small coals under the ashes. A little flare of brightness bloomed on the twigs of brushwood, a grateful light to Arren. "And life also is a terrible thing," Ged said, "and must be feared, and praised." -

It doesn't sound very much like a book for children to me. So far the books were a bit like Harry Potter in the sense that you can take what you want out of it and either read a lot of moral and messages or just read the story but the third book of the series is a little heavier and I can't help but wonder who was the targeted audience. I am not complaining I am enjoying the books but hte "Puffin" on the cover is the real puzzle

Wednesday, February 09, 2011

What a blast!

I am loving the Chinese lessons with my tutor.Her English is not great but it does not really matter and she has a great personality. I think she is even more enthusiastic about me trying to learn Mandarin than I am.
Today I was saying something when she started laughing. When I asked what I had said, she answer: "No it was very good. Your face is white and you speak like Chinese!" which is apparently just too weird for words.
She taught me how to say that I was looking for a taxi the way "Chinese people say" as opposed to proper Mandarin. And each time I practice that sentence she laughs. She just cannot get over that "white face" saying something in colloquial Mandarin. She's a great person.
Tomorrow we are going to China Town to eat "real Chinese food".

The book tidying in the charity store worked out very well. I spent 5 hours yesterday and one today. Of course it is not even close to being done. I will go back tomorrow. They really have some great books in that store. Just today 3 full cardboard boxes were donated! I am having fun with it I meet different people. I can take the time to talk or just stay with my nose in the books as I please.

I am leaving Jo'burg for another road trip this Tuesday or Wednesday. I am sort of sorry to go actually.

Monday, February 07, 2011

Busy day tomorrow

I am really enjoying this "smelling of roses" thing. Today I had a bit of a busy day but nothing like what should happen tomorrow.

This morning I walked into the lone Chinese grocery store in one the neighborhood where I go ( because there are two great food stores, some cheap cafes, good Indian restaurants, a cheap practical clothing store, a map store and a good newspaper stand) and asked the owner if she spoke Mandarin. When she answered that she did I explained that I was looking for somebody who could help me with Mandarin lessons and I was willing to pay per hour. There was a young woman sitting with her across the counter and she just pointed in her direction. So now it is all sorted out I start tomorrow morning at 9:00am!

After this, looking for some pretty but cheap teacups for a friend I went to one of my favourite charity stores in Johannesburg. I normally go there because they often have a great book selection. The store is in a expensive area of town and it is easy for rich women who belong to book clubs to drop their books there. Of course since I was in I had a quick browse in the book section. Today because they have just had some renovations, the small room where they keep the books was completely disorganized. For some reason I asked them if they wanted me to donate some time and sort out their book room. So I am going tomorrow after my first Mandarin lesson. It should be fun ... and very dusty!!

Things can be so simple sometimes!!

Saturday, February 05, 2011

The west coast of South Africa and diamonds

Most of South Africa's west coast (from the Namibian border to a couple of hundred kilometres from Cape Town) is not accessible. It is behind fences because the land belongs to the diamond mining industry.
A lot has gone on about land issues in this area and some of it has been given back to the San People but even they have let the diamond industry close this land off so that for hundreds of kilometres there are no access to the beach.



The diamonds on the west coast are not mined in place (in the kimberlites where they were formed) but are alluvial diamonds. They are found in the sand along the coast and offshore (not in sand then) and have been brought to where they are found by rivers, predominantly the Orange River which is the main river draining to the west coast from central southern Africa.

In the last post I talk about Kleinsee. It first was a farm, then it became a company town which was closed to the public.. Even now that the mine in Kleinzee is closed (De Beers is trying to sale or at least sub contract - I am not sure) you can only enter the town by showing a piece of identification at the gates and you have to leave before 6:00pm. Just south of Kleinzee, within the gated area, there is a beach that De Beers kept open originally for their staff in Kleinzee. It is now open to the public (as long as you pass the gate and leave before 6:00pm) and because of how remote Kleinzee is and how people think of it as closed the beach is obviously quite deserted. It is a lovely place and I spent quite a bit of time walking the beach during the time I spent on the west coast. I normally say that I was in Port Nolloth the nearest town North of Kleinzee because people know where Port Nolloth is, whereas nobody knows Kleinzee. I was actually staying at a farm outside Kleinzee (so I could stay past 6:00pm) so in a totally isolated spot.

Here is an interesting article about the property, the diamonds, how they got there and what DE Beers is doing.

South Africa West Coast wild Ostriches

 There are huge track of lands along the west coast which are closed to the public because they belong to diamond mining companies. Typically along the shore the diamond mine land is very much used but further inland from what I saw it is mostly land closed to the public where very little is done. Driving through this area I saw an unusually high number of ostriches. Those near Kleinzee (I guess at some point I am going to have to explain about Kleinzee) the ostriches were originally released and have now gone back to being wild it could very well be that it is the case for most of if not all of them.

As you can see you can drive at 120kn/hr on this road and near the top of the hill you have ostriches on the road!!

These are the Kleinzee ostriches


The thing with photos of ostriches is that you can quickly have have a situation where the number of body does not match the number of heads.

Thursday, February 03, 2011

Two authors I want to remember

OK, this is of no interest to anybody else but myself.
I just read two good books, nothing special but entretaining in a style I like and I want to be able to remember them so I am listing them here for myself:

"the last days of Newgate" by Andrew Pepper
"The last Dickens" by Matthew Pearl.

Normally when I go to a second-hand bookstore if I don't know what I want I always start with the letter "M" (assuming that authors are in alphabetical order. I've had much success with the letter "M" but now becaue of the two books mention above I first look at the letter "P".